31 May 2013

cambodia: phnom penh

we have been anticipating a cambodia trip for a long time. we were supposed to go last summer with visiting friends, but cancelled because of a virus outbreak. nate's siblings were on board for a cambodia adventure, so to cambodia we went.

we began in the capitol city of phnom penh. 
it is incredibly dirty and incredibly hot. nate and i had just finished reading the rent collector by camron wright, and it was eye-opening to see what we'd read about. 
we stayed in a lovely little hotel tucked away from the street, the white mansion boutique, and ate french food whenever we could. the perk of cambodia's history of french colonization is a plethora of french restaurants for a fraction of the "normal" price.
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we began our day at the tuol sleng genocide museum. it was once a highschool that was turned into a torture and holding facility during the cambodian genocide. the stifling heat, dirt, dust, and raw emotion left us all feeling pretty somber (and sweaty).
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it was interesting to see this with an almost two year-old. she would happily pose as i raised my camera to document what we were seeing, but she seemed to understand that this place was sacred, or rather, respected. she whispered, "mama" to get my attention and carefully walked through the classrooms-turned-genocide-memorial with me.
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we drove a bit outside of the city to the killing fields. the quiet remains of something so atrocious were eery, and yet peaceful. we each wandered at our own pace with an audio guide, trying to understand what happened here...and not that long ago.


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i wept openly at this tree. i don't understand the reasons for a lot of things that have happened in this world.
we were quiet in the car on our way to the next stop...a visit to the CICFO cambodian orphanage.
i went from feeling helpless in a world where horrible, terrible acts of inhumanity scar whole countries, to feeling hope and joy at the smiling faces that raced out to our car in the street to meet us. we had barely opened the van door when these sweet children threw their arms around us with a chorus of "hi!"
and probably because i was feeling so raw, i cried again. i cried all throughout the traditional khmer dances they performed proudly for us, and again when they sang "i am a child of god" and "a child's prayer".
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i love this woman. she embraced me as if we were old friends and scooped sage up from my arms. she is botevy, who survived life in a labor camp under pol pot's regime for four years. she has picked up the pieces of tragedy in her country and dedicated herself to those beautiful children who live at CICFO.
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i wish we'd taken a better photo of everyone, but this is all i got right as we were leaving.
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the next morning brought a quick trip to the royal palace...
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...and attending a church service with the local khmer people (including botevy and all the children).
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we piled into another van (bless you, air conditioning) and drove about 6 hours to siem reap
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we stopped for lunch at this restaurant on stilts over the water. i was crossing my fingers we wouldn't get sick from the food.
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a "gas station" on the side of the rode. see all those coke bottles filled with gasoline? those are for the motos. 

and then we finally arrived in siem reap.

30 May 2013

lawlers in southeast asia

nate's brother, sister, and her husband came to visit a few days after m&m flew home. we're talking a 20+ hour trek for all of our visitors. intense!
we barely gave them time to recover from jetlag with one day in singapore before our travels began. 
we filled the day with tennis, pool time, chinatown, din tai fung, and a trip up marina bay sands for a beautiful view.

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uncle beau works for nike and always comes bearing gifts. he makes sure sage has the latest shoes and matching gear.
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sage also loved her new "buck" (bucket) from auntie jo. 
who can deny that aunts and uncles are the best? 

the next morning, we jumped on a plane bound for cambodia...

krabi sunsets

we've seen a lot of beautiful sunsets in southeast asia, but there were some epic nights in krabi. i couldn't help myself from snapping way too many photos of the changing colors, or of my two favorites playing in the water. cheers to krabi sunsets...
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29 May 2013

krabi, thailand with megs

my mom's visit marked seven weeks of consecutive visitors. we loved it--who doesn't love a party all the time?--but i'll admit we did almost nothing but laundry and hanging out at home this weekend to recover. 

after my mom left, my cousin megan, her husband marcus, and their darling mason came to visit. they were brave to bring little mase all the way to asia, but he was a trooper. they arrived from hong kong, and we flew straight to thailand the next day. i was thrilled to be back in krabi. the breathtaking cliffs, the jungly green, the coconut pineapple smoothies...this place has my heart. we stayed on railay bay and spent five days relaxing and exploring. nate joined us for the last few days of the trip.

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mason was unimpressed with our first thai sunset
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we saw...too many monkeys. at first it was cool, then we were far outnumbered and surrounded by these little guys...and it made me nervous!
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one of our highlights was a cooking class with "ya"
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her instructions for preparing each dish were "bang bang!" and "chop! chop!" we loved her. and the food was delicious.
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sage and mase were ergo buddies
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we rode elephants and got lots of mosquito bites doing it
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i dig my traveling sidekick
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we swam here daily, and woke up to this view each morning
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i got my fill of thai soda water...the best.
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we rented our own long boat for the day and went wherever we wanted.
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sage loved "baby may"
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we snorkeled while sage yelled "nemo!" at all the fish swimming around her
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we got a little (a lot) sunburned, but that didn't stop us.
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i marked floating lanterns off my bucket list!
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it was a great, great trip.
i love that cousin of mine. i love reminiscing about working at days inn together, spending our summers on the lake, and all the adventures we've gone on together.

25 May 2013

adventures in singapore

sage is shy at first. even if she's seen you in pictures, or even if she saw you yesterday. but when my mom walked off an airplane and met us at disneyland hong kong, sage clung to her. she happily sat on her lap, and made herself quite comfortable with grandma's iphone. needless to say, we had a ball with my mom in town. we showed her all our favorite things in singapore...
the orchid garden
chinatown
arab street
little india
gardens by the bay
palawan beach
marina bay sands
the night safari 
and some sketchy reflexology foot rubs in chinatown for good measure.

on our bucket list was to actually stay at the marina bay sands hotel, and a kind friend hooked us up with a discount. we swam in that infinity pool on the top floor for hours and hours. and we thought it was hilarious that our hotel room was bigger than our tiny apartment in the city here. nate even babysat a sleeping sage so we could sneak up to the chocolate buffet at night. bliss!
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the fine print for chinese reflexology should be something like...you won't relax once. this man will dig his knuckles into every tender part of your foot you didn't know was there. don't do it.
it was an experience though!
my mom was set on seeing pandas. and pandas we saw! the river safari has just opened here with a huge new home for those beautiful pandas.  
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sage heaven: her own slushie in a panda bottle. so touristy, but it was refreshing!
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and then all our adventuring came to a halt pretty fast...
who looks this good at 4:30 am?! my mother.
there's something about your mom seeing your life and the places you frequent that is comforting. i don't feel like our conversations are so abstract now because she absolutely knows what i'm talking about when i moan about fairprice finest being out of stock or when i rave about lunch at marché. i am so grateful she came for a visit. we love you!